About Dr. Sarah Vance

Dr. Sarah Vance is a dermatologist and dedicated alpinist with over fifteen years of experience scaling the world's most challenging granite faces. She founded the Oily Peak Compendium to bridge the gap between medical science and the gritty realities of rock climbing.

Her research focuses on the biomechanics of friction, the long-term effects of chalk exposure, and the optimal protocols for treating high-altitude skin injuries. Sarah believes that understanding your body is the most critical safety equipment you possess.

When she isn't writing or treating patients, she spends her time in the Scottish Highlands or Yosemite Valley, testing her own theories on rope tension and sunscreen durability. She advocates for sustainable climbing practices that protect both the environment and the athlete.

Join the community to learn how to climb harder, stay healthy longer, and maintain your equipment with professional precision.